Friday, March 6, 2015

The Sweet Smell of France

What do you think of when you hear "perfume"? For me, the mixture of oils and aromatic swirls is associated with the epitome of femininity and generally pleasant causes of sensation: sweetness, lightness, and freshness. Perfume is such an incredibly delicate and ephemeral item that we have to use music terminology to describe its makeup.

We say perfume has three layers of notes. As we pick up an imaginary bottle and let the scent fill the air, let's pretend the smells dance their way into your senses.

The top notes are the scents that first hit you--they form that initial impression. They're the notes that either pique your interest or disgust you into leaving the perfume right then and there and to go buy some shoes or something instead. Usually they're light and disappear quickly, disappearing into the middle notes.

The middle notes form the "heart" of the perfume; they're the main body. Although they're not necessarily the main attraction, they serve an important role. Often, they mask the initial impression of base notes, which, often, are unpleasant. Together, the middle and base form the theme of the scent. Although initially slightly gross, the base notes become more pleasant.

As we near the departure of the perfume, the base notes come out. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. People typically describes this element of the perfume as "rich" and "deep." You usually don't perceive the base notes until about half an hour after you spritz. The scents chosen for the these notes influence the scents chosen for the top and middle notes.

Now that you know a little more about perfume, let's appreciate some classically French scents chosen and commented on by French nose Francis Kurkdjian, found in Vogue.

Chanel No. 5 (1921)
“It’s the ultimate iconic fragrance that translates the ultimate idea of femininity," Kurkdjian said, "You have the memory of Marilyn Monroe, who wore it, and you have the house of Chanel—together, it’s something incredible."

Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs (1978)
"It’s a bright, sheer floral....It’s something more innocent, the way things were 20 years ago."

Guerlain Shalimar (1925)
"It’s very, very French. You smell it in the theaters, you smell it at the opera. And it really looks like a bottle of perfume."

Yves Saint Laurent Opium (1977)
"The scent is a bit like a perfume done in another century, because the perfumes of that time did not yet have fruit notes, which we use a lot today. The idea of the fragrance itself isn’t as scandalous as it used to be, but it’s still something you identify in a certain way."

Kenzo Flower by Kenzo (2000)
"An Oriental fragrance that's super big and more sheer than dark. You have a rosy, lipstick effect on top and something very powdery, almost like the smell of a compact powder."

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (2001)
"It’s the idea of a French girl. Very contemporary, chic, elegant. It is a fruity, floral chypre [a family of perfumes]."

Whatever your style of perfume or signature scent, you can find something for you with these classically French fragrances.

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